A number of years in the past, a blurb in a meals journal caught my eye. In it, a chef advisable a unique-looking Japanese chef’s knife with large dimples on just one facet of the blade, designed to maintain meals from sticking to it. Knives with little dimples are widespread, however these had been huge, and it made me surprise if the producer was on to one thing. That knife turned out to be as attention-grabbing because it appeared. Whereas it seems to be specialised gear, it may assist any stage of house cook dinner. Whether or not you might be searching for your first good chef’s knife or your endlessly blade, this Japanese gyuto matches the invoice.
You could have seen dimples (aka hollows or “kullens”) on different knives and puzzled whether or not they stored meals from sticking to them, however on Glestain’s blades they’re supersized, and so they work. The Glestain’s dimples—two rows of them on the gyuto, no much less—are excessive, like a neat double row of thumbprints on just one facet of the blade. Lefties like me order theirs with the dimples on the left facet and righties get them on the fitting. Lefties can use the right-handed model (and vice versa) and nonetheless adore it; all they’d lose is the non-stick impact of the dimples. I used to be excited to place it to an extended-use take a look at.
Onerous and Sturdy
A gyuto is a kind of chef’s knife that has a form in between the curvy stomach of a German chef’s knife and the near-flat reducing fringe of the French type. There are two variations of Glestain’s gyutos, Skilled and Residence. I examined each and located them each to be pro-level gear. The key variations are that the Skilled has each a bigger tang (the metallic half that passes by the deal with) and a metallic plate on the butt of the knife. That makes it notably heavier–it feels a bit like a tank. Most house cooks and line cooks will choose the Residence model for on a regular basis use.
Each variations characteristic a tough metal blade—59 on the Rockwell hardness scale—in a mixture that features chromium, carbon, molybdenum, and vanadium. That mixture creates a tough, skinny, and sturdy blade that resists rust and holds a imply edge. (For extra knife nerdery, take a look at Chad Ward’s wonderful reference, An Edge in the Kitchen.) The Glestains are Japanese-made Western-style knives, high-end Japanese blades with a handles such as you’d discover on a conventional French or German knives. It’s fairly comfy and evenly balanced and can maintain you content as you plow by piles of produce.
{Photograph}: Joe Ray
Actually, although, we’re right here for these dimples. It is a “common” knife, so there isn’t any particular flick of the wrist to reap the benefits of them. It simply took a minute to grasp what to anticipate and the way successfully they functioned.
The dimples are fairly deep and far wider than on different knives. I personal an previous Mundial-brand slicer, and the Glestain’s dimples are a lot deeper and simply 3 times as vast. The true magic occurs when what you are reducing is wider than the dimples.
I bought chopping, actually fortunately so. Dimples or not, it is a ravishing knife to work with. Dicing onions felt like I used to be doing it with a supremely good blade, not a magic one. For these used to the curvy stomach of a German-style chef’s knife, the flatter arc of the gyuto takes some getting used to. I cooked Moroccan rooster stew from Vishwesh Bhatt’s cookbook, I Am From Right here, a favorite from 2022. It featured chopped dried figs, which didn’t stick an excessive amount of. I liked the crunch-crunch-crunch feeling of chopping toasted pecans.
Pulling out the brand new Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Extra Good Things cookbook, I made a daikon model of its kohlrabi tonnato recipe. The daikon was about two inches throughout. I began out by making quarter-inch-thick slices with each the Glestain and my santoku, a extra vegetable-focused Japanese knife. The slices lay down neatly subsequent to the Glestain, however after I switched to the santoku, they caught to it as they’d to virtually every other knife. I had comparable outcomes after I quartered and sliced the daikon.
